If you leave everything else on auto it is a good idea to do most of your filming with the focus control set to manual. The reason for this is that sometimes the camera might decide that it wants to focus on a different part of the view than that which you would like it to, sometimes it gets confused and hunts between different focal points and on some cameras it is just plain slow. With some cameras you can have the best of both worlds leaving the camera on manual but having a button which will focus the camcorder automatically when pressed in. When released again the focus remains fixed. Compared with professional type lenses, the manual focus on most modern camcorders isn't truly manual and can have some hastily switching back to auto. For a fuller description click here.

A quick way to obtain sharp focus is to set the camera to manual focus, zoom in on the subject you want to focus on and then press the auto button. Hold it in for a couple of seconds until the image in the view finder is sharp. Release the button, zoom out and frame your shot and your subject will remain in focus.

The picture shows a Sony PD150 camcorder

Once you are familiar with the operation of the camcorder, you can start to think about what you are filming and how you want to go about it. There are lots of different techniques that you can use, but the important thing is to think about the end result. Are you trying to create a video diary, record an interview, produce a magazine type programme or maybe a documentary or short film. The content and style of the video will determine how you prioritise the different aspects of the filming.

For example, moving further away from the subject being filmed and zooming in creates a shot where the background is foreshortened and this will give an entirely different shot than moving in closer and zooming out even though the subject remains at the same size on the screen. By being aware of these techniques the feel of a shot can be changed. If however you need to hear what the subject is saying and the only microphone is stuck to the camera then that must take priority and being close in using the widest angle setting is the only way to go. If both are considered equally important it is time to invest in an external microphone. Alternatively it might be possible to add a voice over or commentary track afterwards and concentrate on the picture.

When using the camera handheld any movement is greatly emphasised when the shot is zoomed in so again keeping to wider zoom settings and adjusting your position to get the shot you want will be the best way to go. Whilst on the subject of zoom, try not to use the digital zoom this just magnifies the image electronically and reduces picture quality. You will probably get better results by switching this feature off and using the zoom facility on your editing software

One of the biggest problems when people are starting off filming is that they look at the subject they are filming and then look at the same view through the viewfinder or camcorder screen. The problem is that the brain is very good at filtering out bits of information it doesn't need and filling in the gaps where information is missing. When you look through the view finder try to imagine that you are sitting at home watching the scene on TV. Can you see the detail of the person's face (assuming you are filming a person) or is it just a tiny blob in the middle of the screen.

Video is a close up medium. Unless you have a tripod and a good zoom lens you won't get any good shots of what is happening on the stage from he back of the room. If possible try and position the camera to get the best shot possible. Here it is just discernable that there are large screens either side of the stage perhaps you could set up next to the cameras taking those pictures.

You might know who the person in the shot is, but would a complete stranger be able to mach the shot on the screen with the real person. Unless the background is relevant to the content of the video fill the whole frame with your subject. If you're filming an interview situation inside make sure that the camera and participants are positioned so that faces can be clearly seen. If it proves difficult to get all participants in shot it must be decided which participants are the most important to be in shot. Do take the time to position the camcorder and subjects so that at least one can be seen clearly. I've seen videos done where an interview was conducted at a desk which was positioned against a wall. The camera was set up in the middle of the room pointing at the desk. The result was that the camcorder captured the backs of the subjects' heads and the voices were less than clear because the subjects were facing away from the microphone. By moving the camcorder to one end of the desk the person who was being interviewed (sitting at the other end of the desk) was captured facing directly at the camera and the enough of the interviewer could be seen to recognise them. Some situations can not be captured easily. Trying to capture an impromptu meeting of a dozen people around a large table with a single camera would be difficult to say least so realise that in some situations it is a case of doing the least worst possible.

To slightly recap the first thing to remember is making sure that you capture on tape the content you require. That could include the audio, which may take precedence over the picture if you are stuck with the built in microphone. The only general rule is that everything on screen should have some relevance to your finished video. There are a few accepted principles that are considered to give a more pleasing shot. A few of these are as follows.

Don't let the background interfere with the foreground. More simply try to ensure that the main character in shot doesn't have a tree growing out of his/her head. Also the background might distract from what you are trying to film in the foreground.

If the subject is looking sideways across the screen have them looking into the frame i.e. with a space in front of them rather than looking out of the frame with space behind them. The exception to this is when the space behind them will become occupied by another person or perhaps a scary monster. The same principle applies when panning to follow a subject as they are moving. They should be moving into a space rather than out of it.

Use restraint when panning and zooming. Unless you are doing it for effect the general rule is go slower. There are some that advocate that zooming, except to set up the shot, shouldn't be used at all. Where the subject content is fairly static a slow zoom combined with a slow pan can add some movement to the shot. Try to bring in fresh elements to the image for the viewer to watch.

Like all rules the above can and are broken to get a specific effect. Try to watch TV programmes and films with a critical eye. Watch how scenes have been set up and shot for different styles of programme.

An important aspect of filming is lighting and there are many books dedicated to this subject alone. For most basic filming done outside, the natural light will usually be sufficient. On sunny days you will get lots of shadows, which because it is a natural occurrence might not be too detracting from the shot. The effect of shadows can be reduced by using a simple reflecting device such as a piece of polystyrene sheet. Conversely it is possible to use a sheet painted matt black to increase shadow to give a greater feeling of depth. Once lights are introduced it gets more complicated to prevent the scene from looking un-naturally lit. Whilst lighting can dramatically improve the results you get, don't panic if you don't have any. There are a few simple rules that will make the shots better. Position your subject so that the natural light enhances the shot. Film with a window behind you rather than in front or alternatively have the window at an angle to one side of the subject and use a reflector as a fill light to prevent large shadows. Be careful with large reflectors outside they can act like large sails.

The pictures here show a small commercial reflector. The folded size (above) is about 38cm dia, and the open size (right) is about 1m dia.

The above photo show the white side of the reflector, but as can be seen in the other photo, the other side is a gold colour. The cover can also be utilised as a small blue screen

In some instances where lights or reflectors would be intimidating to the person being filmed you will just have to make do with the natural light. Fortunately most modern offices with diffuse florescent lighting provides sufficient light to film on a modern camcorder. Don't forget to position your subjects to either make the most of the available light or if preferable use blinds and curtains to restrict the available light to that provided artificially. If you get the chance try to have a rehearsal of your set up so any problems can be tackled in a more leisurely fashion.

The window behind the object being filmed causes the auto iris to close down making the foreground too dark

This is basically the same shot but this time the blinds have been closed and the camera angled down slightly. The window is still bright, but the foreground can now be seen

By moving in closer to the object most of the bright background is eliminated from the shot and the object being filmed becomes clearer